The American Orchardist by James Thacher, Boston, 1822


W

hen the philosopher Ralph Waldo Emerson called apples "the social fruit of New England," he and his audience knew the reference was to cider—and his remark held for any part of America where apples grew. His audience also understood that he was referring to an alcoholic drink of fermented apples, not the apple juice that today most people know as cider. Both the change in the meaning of "cider" and the fact that alcoholic cider is now little known in America can be attributed to the success of the temperance movement in the 19th century.

Alcoholic cider was the most popular beverage in America for 200 years. During the colonial era, successful New England farmers put away 20 to 50 barrels in their cellars each autumn. Per capita consumption at this time was 2.5 barrels per year-about 1 gallon a day per adult. It was considered a healthful drink and routinely served with all meals including breakfast. Children drank it cut with water and housewives cooked with it. Cider was also used as currency to purchase supplies and services.