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"…Eating is something more than animal indulgence and…cooking has a nobler purpose than
the gratification of appetite and the sense of taste. Cooking has been defined as ‘the art
of preparing food for the nourishment of the human body.’" These words of Mary Lincoln, the
first director of the Boston Cooking School and a well-known
teacher
and
writer
of
her era, illustrate
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an essential element of scientific cookery: the preparation and digestibility of
food were paramount while the actual taste of the food was secondary.

The preparation of many dishes, particularly an abundance of bizarre salads, resulted in
rigorously composed, tightly controlled presentations. Molded foods, from fish puddings to
tomato aspic to jellied desserts were wildly popular, thanks to the convenience of a new
product, granulated gelatin. For the sake of digestibility, vegetables were cooked nearly to
a pulp. The recommended cooking time for spinach, for example, was 30 minutes. And then the
spinach might be blanketed in white sauce, another popular food treatment.

With digestibility as a goal, the advocates of scientific cookery viewed
food preparation as "external digestion," the first step in the body’s
absorption of nutrients. This belief resulted in elaborately garnished
and decorated food, the purpose of which was to activate
the salivary glands and thus initiate the digestive process.
The recipes offered on this page, all from Fannie Farmer’s A New Book of Cookery (1917),
will give curious readers a good sense of the dishes that were typical of classic scientific
cookery.
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