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By the 1880’s, many well-off Americans had begun to realize that industrialization was causing
serious social, economic and political problems—swelling slums, festering factory towns and violent
conflicts between labor and management. Progressives of this era believed solutions lay in improving
the lives of the poor through various programs and reforms. The most influential of these was the New
England Kitchen, a public kitchen established in Boston under the leadership of Ellen Richards.
Its mission was to demonstrate bettering the lives of the laboring class through scientific cookery.
This model provided take-out food based on traditional New England cuisine with plain, but nutritious
dishes such as pea soup, oatmeal, boiled dinners and custard. By the end of the
second
year,
the
New
England
Kitchen’s
success
had
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prompted the opening of a branch in Boston’s North End, cooking classes for neighborhood women
and medical students, and upon request, the sending out of insulated hot lunches to teachers, shop girls
and factory workers. Favorable publicity inspired the opening of similar kitchens in New York City, Philadelphia,
Chicago and Providence. However, within five years, the majority of these experiments had quietly closed their
doors or changed their form, their demise attributed mainly to a failure to take into account the food preferences
of the many foreign cultures that made up much of their clientele. In the future, the efforts of those involved in
food reform through scientific cookery would be focused on the middle and upper classes.
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